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Post by olebama on Apr 18, 2014 19:24:32 GMT -7
I have not been on for a while. Ergonomic issues required that I stay off the computer for a while.
One of our forum member (or ex-member?) described his water setup. I mentioned it to a friend of mine and he was intrigued. Our member had the water line coming into the house and then had larger diameter pipe (6 inch or more?) serpentine to give a long length. This was his water storage. I seem to recall that he had a check valve from the street to the house and a pump so that he could still use the faucets, etc. But I can't recall how the pump was plumbed.
Anyone recall?
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Post by thywar on Apr 18, 2014 19:34:06 GMT -7
I'm not positive but I think CWI mentioned something along this line.. maybe Geron or Pennsylvania Mike.. Hmm I guess I don't know.. but I remember the link but I'm incapable of using Search on here.. for whatever reason.
PS Welcome back.. glad to see you on again and hope your ergo problems are better..
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Post by Cwi555 on Apr 18, 2014 20:47:06 GMT -7
I have not been on for a while. Ergonomic issues required that I stay off the computer for a while. One of our forum member (or ex-member?) described his water setup. I mentioned it to a friend of mine and he was intrigued. Our member had the water line coming into the house and then had larger diameter pipe (6 inch or more?) serpentine to give a long length. This was his water storage. I seem to recall that he had a check valve from the street to the house and a pump so that he could still use the faucets, etc. But I can't recall how the pump was plumbed. Anyone recall? That would be me. Check valve is needed to isolate from the street. There are several methods for getting the water out of the lines. You can get the water out via air pressure, vacuum, pump, or gravity. As for volume: www.harvel.com/technical-support-center/engineering-design-data/design-properties-pipe/schedule-40-pvc~1.48 gallons per foot of 6" sch40 pvc pipe. You can approximate required number of feet for the desired volume from that.
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Post by olebama on Apr 19, 2014 8:56:15 GMT -7
Thanks, CWI. Have you had any issues? Anything that you would do differently? I understand that the water is always renewed/replaced, but have you had to "flush out" the system periodically?
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Post by Cwi555 on Apr 19, 2014 10:19:54 GMT -7
Thanks, CWI. Have you had any issues? Anything that you would do differently? I understand that the water is always renewed/replaced, but have you had to "flush out" the system periodically? It's built with clean out plugs, and has inline filters. Any water system needs a means to flush and clean as time will deposit debris and other contaminants. The next generation of it will be different. The valves tend to build up deposits, and I've already had to change two of them. The next setup will gravity feed into a cistern/basin then get pumped from there. It will require a manual switch, but that won't be that difficult.
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Post by kutkota on Apr 19, 2014 10:36:38 GMT -7
These basins you talk of. What is the preferred method for keeping the water clean?
Our is it cleaned prior to use from them?
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Post by Cwi555 on Apr 19, 2014 11:08:28 GMT -7
These basins you talk of. What is the preferred method for keeping the water clean? Our is it cleaned prior to use from them? The new design will run the water from the basin into the filtration units, but from the street or in reserve, it will go through a series of large particle cleaning and UV treatment prior to entering the basin.
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Post by olebama on Apr 20, 2014 18:54:36 GMT -7
Thanks for the info.
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Post by onidah on May 28, 2014 17:42:26 GMT -7
We are on a well and have one of these systems installed:
Well Manager 425CP
It is a 425 gallon tank that is filled as needed from our well pump using a timer and a float valve. It has a separate pressure pump that provides a constant 60 psi pressure to our home fixtures no matter how many are using water at the same time. The 425 gallons of water is constantly being refreshed.
This system could be attached to a city water system using some electric valves in the place of the well pump for the incoming water.
Onidah
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Post by Cwi555 on May 28, 2014 18:39:53 GMT -7
We are on a well and have one of these systems installed:
Well Manager 425CP
It is a 425 gallon tank that is filled as needed from our well pump using a timer and a float valve. It has a separate pressure pump that provides a constant 60 psi pressure to our home fixtures no matter how many are using water at the same time. The 425 gallons of water is constantly being refreshed.
This system could be attached to a city water system using some electric valves in the place of the well pump for the incoming water.
Onidah That is the same principle and a viable solution.
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Post by thywar on May 28, 2014 19:23:51 GMT -7
We are on a well and have one of these systems installed:
Well Manager 425CP
It is a 425 gallon tank that is filled as needed from our well pump using a timer and a float valve. It has a separate pressure pump that provides a constant 60 psi pressure to our home fixtures no matter how many are using water at the same time. The 425 gallons of water is constantly being refreshed.
This system could be attached to a city water system using some electric valves in the place of the well pump for the incoming water.
Onidah That is the same principle and a viable solution. Is there a simple cost effective way to do this? Is it better to bury the 500 gallon tank?
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Post by Cwi555 on May 28, 2014 20:17:18 GMT -7
That is the same principle and a viable solution. Is there a simple cost effective way to do this? Is it better to bury the 500 gallon tank? A turn key solution will always be more expensive in terms of $$$. A do it yourself solution is usually more expensive in terms of time and labor. As for burying it, careful consideration for expected life cycle is necessary to determine above or below ground installment viability.
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