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Post by offtrail on Aug 24, 2016 18:08:09 GMT -7
Yes... fished for a couple hours this evening, only one small pike was caught. Not really biting for me so i took my folding pruning saw and went looking for a kill stick...found it! Not sure what species it is but it seems heavy and solid. It has one big end and one smaller end for the handle. Question?... when drying this piece of wood how do I keep it from checking or splitting. When drying, if it does split the first hard target i hit could destroy it. Bark off or bark on, dry inside the house or outside sheltered from the rain. Much respect for the members here so give me your opinions...for drying this piece...Thanks!  |
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Post by sirderrin on Aug 24, 2016 18:32:00 GMT -7
Do not dry in a air conditioned location because the reduced humidity will cause to to crack and twist for certain.... It being green and cut while the sap is up it probably will twist a bit and crack anyway. Removing the bark ASAP will help that issue, but it is still no guarantee... It is best to cut green wood while the sap is down and allow it to dry in open air tied in a bundle with others to minimize cracking and twisting especially for longer pieces...
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Post by thywar on Aug 24, 2016 18:33:11 GMT -7
My wood turning instructor told me latex paint on both ends. Put in a dry spot. You might even put in oven on 250* for awhile just to start the process.
I painted both ends of some maple I cut. Habitat store, $15 for gallon of latex. Took three coats. Soaked it right up. Leave the bark.
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Post by thywar on Aug 24, 2016 18:34:15 GMT -7
Lol. One thing about this place is you can get varying opinions. Bark or no bark. It'll work
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Post by sirderrin on Aug 24, 2016 18:42:43 GMT -7
I am making my statements based on personal experience in drying wood for walking sticks and canes along with making handles and other sundries... If one was to use latex on both ends you are effectively sealing it and leaving the bark would make more sense... I would NEVER place wood in the oven to "speed" the process... It might work ok on "small" stuff but not so well on a larger piece...
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Post by woodyz on Aug 24, 2016 18:49:00 GMT -7
bark off, skin it then look at the grain, the longer the grain down the length the denser the wood its harder to determine not knowing what it is let the wood dry for a year or so. To prevent cracking, paint or wax the ends before putting it away to dry. (It's the faster water loss out of the end grain that causes splitting.) to speed up the process try heat, like in a kiln. Note, however, that under ideal conditions air-dried wood is a bit tougher to break than kiln-dried wood. The reason is that the air-dried wood retains a slightly greater percentage of moisture. (The percent moisture for air-dried hardwoods of medium density is 15-20% while the percent for the same wood dried in a kiln is 12-15%.) This increased moisture means that the wood retains some of the properties of green wood. That is, it's more flexible, less brittle, and therefore less likely to snap. No matter how you decide to dry your stick, be sure to store the green wood out of the direct sunlight, as even a few hours can cause one side to dry faster than the other, thus resulting in a permanent warp. Direct sun on properly sealed and dried sticks is less of a problem, but can still result in hairline cracks called checking, and these in turn lead to unexpected breaks. Finally, make sure that you store your drying wood flat. Wood that is dry resists bending, so wood that is bent during drying stays bent. Yes, small pieces can be subsequently unbent using steam, ammonia, heat, and presses applying pressure for weeks, but it is much easier to dry the wood straight in the first place. My opinion is while that one is drying go find a hedge row of Osage Orange, the ones with the hedge apples, and find one already dead and cured the right length with a knot on one end. It will be harder to work, but better in the long run. And you won't have to wait a year to use it. www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/osage-orange-tree-zmaz85zsie.aspxOsage Orange, a tree introduced into Ohio during the 1800s, is commonly seen in rural areas where it is found in fields and fence rows. Its usage as a large hedge tree in a row planting and the softball-sized fruits of female trees give it the alternative common name of Hedge Apple. once dried don't store it in the sun and keep it wiped down with linseed oil. when your in the woods look for a sapling the right diameter then dig down to the root ball and cut it past there, so you use the root ball as the heavy end. |
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Post by woodyz on Aug 24, 2016 19:18:47 GMT -7
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Post by offtrail on Aug 24, 2016 19:44:40 GMT -7
bark off, skin it then look at the grain, the longer the grain down the length the denser the wood its harder to determine not knowing what it is let the wood dry for a year or so. To prevent cracking, paint or wax the ends before putting it away to dry. (It's the faster water loss out of the end grain that causes splitting.) to speed up the process try heat, like in a kiln. Note, however, that under ideal conditions air-dried wood is a bit tougher to break than kiln-dried wood. The reason is that the air-dried wood retains a slightly greater percentage of moisture. (The percent moisture for air-dried hardwoods of medium density is 15-20% while the percent for the same wood dried in a kiln is 12-15%.) This increased moisture means that the wood retains some of the properties of green wood. That is, it's more flexible, less brittle, and therefore less likely to snap. No matter how you decide to dry your stick, be sure to store the green wood out of the direct sunlight, as even a few hours can cause one side to dry faster than the other, thus resulting in a permanent warp. Direct sun on properly sealed and dried sticks is less of a problem, but can still result in hairline cracks called checking, and these in turn lead to unexpected breaks. Finally, make sure that you store your drying wood flat. Wood that is dry resists bending, so wood that is bent during drying stays bent. Yes, small pieces can be subsequently unbent using steam, ammonia, heat, and presses applying pressure for weeks, but it is much easier to dry the wood straight in the first place. My opinion is while that one is drying go find a hedge row of Osage Orange, the ones with the hedge apples, and find one already dead and cured the right length with a knot on one end. It will be harder to work, but better in the long run. And you won't have to wait a year to use it. www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/osage-orange-tree-zmaz85zsie.aspxOsage Orange, a tree introduced into Ohio during the 1800s, is commonly seen in rural areas where it is found in fields and fence rows. Its usage as a large hedge tree in a row planting and the softball-sized fruits of female trees give it the alternative common name of Hedge Apple. once dried don't store it in the sun and keep it wiped down with linseed oil. when your in the woods look for a sapling the right diameter then dig down to the root ball and cut it past there, so you use the root ball as the heavy end. I know about osage orange and know where a few trees are. I was looking for squaw wood from oak...just cut shape and ready to kill. |
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Post by offtrail on Aug 24, 2016 19:49:05 GMT -7
Very impressed with all the information and knowledge...thanks to each & everyone for helping.
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Post by offtrail on Aug 24, 2016 19:52:00 GMT -7
I'm thinking this piece i cut is choke cherry, if so it may not be the best choice for a throwing stick...what say you?
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Post by offtrail on Aug 24, 2016 20:00:20 GMT -7
For right now i'm going to stay with a small throwing stick, no need to take a chance and throw my arm out. You never know my arm may never recover or by the time it does i'm being spoon fed strained peas lol
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Post by missasip on Aug 25, 2016 8:31:43 GMT -7
Well just seen this thread. It's some sort of cherry. Was a stand alone little tree or was it a large water sprout off a fallen or leaning tree?
If it's a water sprout, more than likely you'll have to toss it. Cherry water sprouts don't have good grain structure. Reason being they grow extremely fast.
Now if it's a free standing sapling, I suggest using a peice of pipe or any peice of strong straight steel or wood and wire tie your stick to it in 5 or more places. Seal the ends. I would leave the bark on, as that will help slow down the drying process some. After the bark dries and starts lifting then remove the bark. As been mentioned with the sap up it's real hard to control the drying process.
I've air dried and kiln dried over 30k bf of lumber over the last 30-35 years. Softwoods, hardwoods and even a good amount of Mesquite. It's a tricky process if you don't have good moisture meters and rh meters...
Just try it and see what happens.
Jimmy
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Post by offtrail on Aug 25, 2016 9:56:33 GMT -7
Well just seen this thread. It's some sort of cherry. Was a stand alone little tree or was it a large water sprout off a fallen or leaning tree? If it's a water sprout, more than likely you'll have to toss it. Cherry water sprouts don't have good grain structure. Reason being they grow extremely fast. Now if it's a free standing sapling, I suggest using a peice of pipe or any peice of strong straight steel or wood and wire tie your stick to it in 5 or more places. Seal the ends. I would leave the bark on, as that will help slow down the drying process some. After the bark dries and starts lifting then remove the bark. As been mentioned with the sap up it's real hard to control the drying process. I've air dried and kiln dried over 30k bf of lumber over the last 30-35 years. Softwoods, hardwoods and even a good amount of Mesquite. It's a tricky process if you don't have good moisture meters and rh meters... Just try it and see what happens. Jimmy That sounds good missasip and besides it's just a branch off a small sapling free for the taking. I will however still use all the information when i make a wall hanger...might look good on the wall...Thanks! |
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Post by graf on Aug 25, 2016 11:09:11 GMT -7
On walking sticks Osage orange or other hard wood I remove the bark scrape not carve the wood smooth I use either a sharp knife or small piece of window glass. I use cordage on both about the size of twine wrap a area about 3/4" wide this helps keep ends from splitting. I hang to dry out of sun but breezy. To much sun tends to warp wood. When you think it's dry give it another week. I finish with Birch Wood Casey gun stock finish there are different finishes gloss or satin. Before you apply finish coats remove the twine from both ends.
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Post by thywar on Aug 25, 2016 12:43:11 GMT -7
Or just buy a used police baton. Problem solved
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