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Post by scoper27 on Jul 13, 2012 19:31:47 GMT -7
I need some help on how to get rid of some surface rust on the inside of a muzzleloader I bought. I've tried a good oiling and cleaning but I can still "see" the rust.
I don't want to have to get another barrel, so any tips would be appreciated.
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Post by woodyz on Jul 13, 2012 19:46:36 GMT -7
Well, I don't know if what I did for the same reason was the correct thing to do, but it worked.
I stuffed a rag in one end and filled the barrel with naval jelly and let it cook several days. Then I used a wire brush and swabbed it out with hot water until I stopped getting rust. Then I re oiled it, shot it and re cleaned and oiled it. It worked as best I can tell.
I also was able to get out a rusted in breech plug, using the same method.
They have got to be cleaned after every use/
edit Yes days should have been hours, some times my fingers write stuff and I don't check behind them. Never leave anything in Naval Jelly for days, that was a bad mistake on my part.
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Post by Cwi555 on Jul 13, 2012 23:03:54 GMT -7
Naval jelly works just fine, though it's a good idea to keep an eye on it as letting it sit to long can do more harm than good.
Most commercial rust removers are usually base on some form of acid.
In the case of naval jelly, it's phosphoric acid. For that reason I have used a dual process when they have been given to me to solve a rust problem. I use the Kool aid method.
Not all Kool aid packs contain the same amount of citric acid so you have to test your specific 'flavor'.
Mix 3 packs of kool-aid into 8 ounces of warm water. Drop in a rusty nail over night. with some mild wiping in the morning, all the rust should be gone.
You can also use ascorbic acid (vitamin C pills). Dissolve 4 of them into 8 ounces warm water and repeat the same step.
You can also combine the kool-aid method with the naval jelly. Clean overnight with the kool-aid solution. Pour solution out, then swab with a heavy coating of naval jelly. Let stand 2-3 minutes. Begin the process of cleaning up the residue, and be fairly fast about it.
What this has done is create a layer of iron phosphate. The longer you leave it in solution, the more it's going to etch/roughen up the metal. This works particularly well with something you wish to paint.
Again care should be taken when using those methods to assure no harm is done to the integrity of the barrel or it's function.
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Post by tjwilhelm on Jul 14, 2012 13:27:52 GMT -7
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Post by woodyz on Jul 14, 2012 13:39:22 GMT -7
That"s right tjwilhelm, we use that process on engine block and heads all the time. A good coating of rust will lower the price from the wrecking yard every time.
We do it and it never even occurred to me to use it for anything but car parts.
That's why I love this forum. Everyone looks at things from a different view and I am then forced to take my blinders off and see another way to do it.
Thanks tiwilhelm.
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Post by scoper27 on Jul 14, 2012 19:52:24 GMT -7
Thanks for the posts, I will probably try the naval jelly first and see how that works.
Tj, I know of the method your talking about but I don't want to have to re-blue the barrel after I'm done.
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Post by olebama on Oct 24, 2014 10:21:34 GMT -7
Gang, I purchased some items at a yard sale and I need to remove rust. Kaiser blade (not sure if that is spelled right), bush knife, steel wedge, and some other items. I know I can use elbow grease. But what about the other techniques mentioned above?
along with the rust, what do I need to do about protecting/restoring wooden handles?
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