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Post by tjwilhelm on Nov 29, 2012 18:30:07 GMT -7
Because of all the damage to my shoulder in last year's hit-and-run incident, I decided to go "tacticool" on my 36 year old Mossberg 500. I replaced the old, standard wood stock with a Blackhawk Knoxx BreachersGrip Pistol Grip. I chose this because it's spring loaded and they claim it reduces recoil by up to 75%.
In the process of this small modification, I noticed a few dime-sized spots of surface rust on the magazine tube...DARN!
I want to deal with this right away; BUT, I want to do it RIGHT.
So-o-o, being uneducated in such matters, I need to ask for advice as what is the best method to deal with this surface rust?
Dremel tool with a cloth buffing wheel and polishing compound? And then use gun bluing on the area where the surface has been cleaned?
Whaddaya think?
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Post by Lawdog2705 on Nov 29, 2012 18:51:23 GMT -7
DH says don't use ANY mechanical tool on the gun. Use a bluing cleaner on the barrel only. This should fix both problems and bring it back to looking new. If you use the dremel, it will hurt it more than help it.
DH refinished a short barrel with a bluing compond and it came out looking brand new.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 29, 2012 19:10:44 GMT -7
light gun oil and 4 Ot steel wool. A Little oil on the spot and gently rub the spot.. GENTLY no pressure just finger weight. Proceed slow it wont take much work or time. If its down to the bare metal then reblue with your choice. I use Dicapon from Brownells. This will do nothing for pits but should clean up minor rust just fine. Remember don't scrub it's not Prom nite go slow and GENTLY
I have used Dead Mule recoil reducers too. work great.
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Post by jmarshnh on Nov 29, 2012 19:34:10 GMT -7
I just finished my 8th job of removing surface rust from 5 shotguns and 3 rifles that were in a water damaged house. I use Rem Oil, by Remington, and either 000 or 0000 steel wool. Very light pressure and lots of elbow grease. Some needed a little re bluing and when I finished I oiled them all very good with another light dose of Rem Oil. I did not refinish them, just removed surface rust and since they are mine I am happy with the work. ;D
Jim
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Post by marc on Nov 29, 2012 20:12:12 GMT -7
TJ,
In a slight twist of response - I would seriously think about a good semi-auto like the Mossberg 930 for your shoulder. Everyone now accepts semi-auto pistols and rifles but many still claim that only pumps are reliable as a combat shotgun, which just isn't based in fact nowadays.
Remember that MUCH of the recoil is nicely absorbed by the gas system instead of your shoulder. In a pinch, you can still function with one functional arm is needed. That thing is a dream to shoot. I will also admit that there is something inherently satisfying about getting back on target faster and sending 10 rounds down range as fast as I can pull the trigger. Around here, they sell for $599.
I just bought an AR, but that Mossberg 930 Pro is my next purchase.
Marc
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Post by Cwi555 on Nov 29, 2012 22:10:40 GMT -7
Assuming it was properly blued to begin with, then the resulting material of the bluing process is Fe3O4 which is the black oxide of iron, as compared to the red oxide Fe2O3. The Fe3O4 coating is typically only .0001” thick. Surface Fe2O3 red oxide is usually around ~.003” deep if there is no discernable pit underneath the spot.
Using mechanical means of removal is therefore extreme overkill, but at the same time, you don’t want to leave any of the rust behind, or embed any future source of rust in the bluing that is still good. The hardness of the surface red Fe2O3, is on the soft side, softer than standard copper, while copper itself is softer than the black oxide Fe3O4. I would advise (and practice myself) using copper wool with a rust inhibiting oil.
The cold bluing chemicals are typically selenium dioxide. It really doesn’t do much for you regarding corrosion resistance and is generally only good for aesthetic purposes.
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Post by mud on Nov 29, 2012 22:46:44 GMT -7
Never used the copper but I will give it a try on my next project. as to the cold blue, so far I have had really good luck with the finish holding up and not rusting. Am I just lucky? I completely reblued my 270 several years ago and it still does not gather rust.
and someone who has used that stock Tj bought let me know how it works. I have been thinking about adding a 12 but really hate the recoil which is why I went with a 20.
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Post by woodscustom on Nov 30, 2012 10:06:56 GMT -7
Scratch off what you can, dump some oil on it and drive on.
Adds to character.
WC
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Post by wtrfwlr on Nov 30, 2012 10:12:56 GMT -7
My Winchester 30-30 has TONS of character then! It's alright, it sure is fun to shoot and will flat whack a deer too!  |
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Post by jmarshnh on Nov 30, 2012 13:29:56 GMT -7
My Winchester 30-30 has TONS of character then! So does my Model 9422. Still shoots like a charm.  Had the big brother Model 94 30-30 too but sold it to a friend about 20 years ago.  He hunted way more than I did and besides I still have my 1951 Winchester Model 94-32 .32 special and the old trusty Remington Woodsmaster Model 742 30.06. These last two were the ones I just finished getting surface rust off. Jim
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Post by woodscustom on Nov 30, 2012 13:48:40 GMT -7
TJ, A man of you caliber should not be wallowing with the peasants for scraps. Only one shotgun should interest you.   Zing that ol Mossberg in the weeds. WC |
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Post by wtrfwlr on Nov 30, 2012 13:59:06 GMT -7
I agree! But don't zing her in the weeds! Zing her on down here to Bj! I'll be happy to smear duck feathers all over that old rust bucket! |
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Post by tjwilhelm on Nov 30, 2012 13:59:59 GMT -7
LOL! Thanks WC! But, I think I need more than "caliber" to pick up that Benelli...I think I also need a huge wad of cash!
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Post by woodscustom on Nov 30, 2012 14:07:11 GMT -7
They are a little on the "Tastefull" side for sure.
But wow, they are awesome.
WC
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He hunted way more than I did and besides I still
