|
|
Post by thywar on Jan 21, 2013 19:01:27 GMT -7
I've been looking and thinking about a black powder revolver. Who has experience with them and what do you like/dislike about them? What's your favorite caliber and why? Do you target shoot them or use for something else?
Thanks for your input..
|
|
|
|
Post by mud on Jan 21, 2013 19:07:16 GMT -7
I have one but it is broke due to rust and neglect. I liked mine quite a bit. Try to get one you can purchase extra cylinders for and get it in stainless if you can.
|
|
|
|
Post by thywar on Jan 21, 2013 19:29:53 GMT -7
|
|
|
|
Post by Cwi555 on Jan 21, 2013 20:11:21 GMT -7
Suggest avoiding stainless steel for black powder anything. The original ingredients to black powder are sulfur, charcoal, and potassium nitrate. Sulfur and potassium nitrate do not play well in the sandbox with stainless steel, eventually leading to the strong potential for intergranular and intragranular corrosion with the latter subject to intragranular stress cracking and subsequent catastrophic failure.
The only black powder substitute that is none corrosive and none hygroscopic is blackhorn 209 but even it has some concerns chemically for stainless steel.
I've seen and performed one too many forensic exams on stainless black powder weapon kabooms to trust that. Stick with the carbon steels and proper cleaning is my advice.
|
|
|
|
Post by Cwi555 on Jan 21, 2013 20:21:03 GMT -7
As an added note, the blackhorn 209 does not cause gumming up or rusting in standard carbon bp firearms. The none hygroscopic properties of it has little buildup and rusting/moister trapping unlike the other bp or simulants.
|
|
|
|
Post by thywar on Jan 21, 2013 20:24:50 GMT -7
Suggest avoiding stainless steel for black powder anything. The original ingredients to black powder are sulfur, charcoal, and potassium nitrate. Sulfur and potassium nitrate do not play well in the sandbox with stainless steel, eventually leading to the strong potential for intergranular and intragranular corrosion with the latter subject to intragranular stress cracking and subsequent catastrophic failure. The only black powder substitute that is none corrosive and none hygroscopic is blackhorn 209 but even it has some concerns chemically for stainless steel. I've seen and performed one too many forensic exams on stainless black powder weapon kabooms to trust that. Stick with the carbon steels and proper cleaning is my advice. Thanks for the info.. |
|
|
|
Post by Redneckidokie on Jan 22, 2013 3:58:58 GMT -7
Interesting to know.
How long would that take?
I have several stainless TC guns that are into their 15th year.
Should I look for something?
|
|
|
|
Post by Cwi555 on Jan 22, 2013 6:30:27 GMT -7
Interesting to know. How long would that take? I have several stainless TC guns that are into their 15th year. Should I look for something? For ones that were cleaned immediately after use, it could run upwards of 30 years. For those not cleaned properly, in particular those left to sit between seasons, which were the vast majority of what I witnessed, it was as little as 3 years with a max of 10. You can shoot nearly anything if you clean it in a timely fashion, including corrosive ammo, the problem lies in not cleaning it. The combination of stainless and black powered should be approached in the same manner as shooting corrosive ammo out of a smokeless powder centerfire arm. From dixie gun works: How do I clean my muzzleloader? Due to the extremely corrosive nature of black powder, diligent cleaning is a necessary part of the muzzleloading experience. Your objective in cleaning should be to remove all black powder residue from the barrel and other metal surfaces and to protect the firearm from corrosion. If you are shooting your muzzleloader on a regular basis, we recommend the following cleaning regiment after each shooting session: scrub the bore with a brass brush and solvent soaked patches (until patches come out clean) and wipe down all metal surfaces. Then using clean patches wipe the bore and all metal parts dry. Apply oil (lightly) to the bore and metal parts, wood can also be wiped down with oil (lightly). If the muzzleloader is not going to be fired for an extended period of time, we recommend a more thorough cleaning. This can be accomplished by first removing the barrel and placing the breech end in a bucket of hot soapy water. Then using a wet patch over the cleaning jag, pump the cleaning rod up and down, drawing the water into the barrel and flushing it out. Rinse the barrel with hot water to aid in the drying process. Using a solvent, remove any residue from the lock and stock. Wipe down the entire gun with a good oil or moisture displacing lubricant. Reassemble the firearm and store safely. It should be noted that these cleaning instructions apply for the use of black powder and Pyrodex. Those instructions are even more important on a stainless BP weapon. As for what to look for, the first signs of a problem in a stainless BP are areas in the bore that appear dull and sometimes have a green tint to them, and do not come clean or brighten with cleaning. You are also looking for minute cracks around the same areas. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_corrosion_crackingThis one illustrates the concern very well in my opinion: www.corrosion-doctors.org/Forms-SCC/scc.htmwww.npl.co.uk/upload/pdf/stress.pdfYou have three concerns with BP. Chlorides, Sulphides, and Thiosulphates. Read table 1 pdf page 5 for a listing of the various mechanisms. I cannot emphasis enough the value of the blackhorn 209 powder having eleminated most of that. |
|
|
|
Post by mud on Jan 22, 2013 6:47:20 GMT -7
Good to know. Perhaps I was taught wrong about them. Sorry my info seems to be inaccurate
|
|
|
|
Post by Redneckidokie on Jan 23, 2013 2:23:43 GMT -7
I never use black powder, only pyrodex, and always clean after every use by total tear down, pull breech plug and ream all holes for residue, air hose out, and oil. I will watch closely, thanks.  |
|
|
|
Post by kutkota on Jan 23, 2013 14:59:19 GMT -7
Interesting that I just learned that black powder weapons requires no NICS check. I didn't know that. Do they track them a seperate way?
|
|
|
|
Post by Cwi555 on Jan 23, 2013 15:37:53 GMT -7
Interesting that I just learned that black powder weapons requires no NICS check. I didn't know that. Do they track them a seperate way? To my knowledge, if it was designed and built prior to 1898. (18 USC ยง 921 (a) (3) (A)) For the purposes of this article, the only weapons that would not be covered by the federal firearm statutes would be either antique firearms, manufactured before 1898 or a muzzle loading rifle, shotgun or pistol, designed to use black powder or a black powder substitute and which could not use fixed ammunition. Keep in mind, state laws vary |
|
|
|
Post by kutkota on Jan 23, 2013 16:01:57 GMT -7
Ill have to take another look. The cabelas addvertisment had huge half page add stating no NICS check for a modern old blackpowder pistol.
|
|
|
|
Post by hunter63 on Jan 24, 2013 13:11:11 GMT -7
Got a couple and they are not that bad to clean....even with real black powder.
If you don't want to really mess with it, remove the nipples, and grips, and boil in a pan of hot water, remove....let dry...the heat will dry out
Spray down lightly with WD-40...(yeah yeah I know Don't ever use WD 40 on firearms)....It's to remove the last bit of water,.then a light oiling.
|
|
