Duracoat

[geron]

Anyone have personal experience with the Duracoat gun paint finish? I'm thinking of coating a truck gun that would be exposed to the extreme humidity in this area.

Also:
Been reading reviews on the H&R (NEF) Pardner protector a Chinese Rem 870 knock off. Think I would really rather find an old beat up 870 for about the same price. Don't like the Mossy 500 with the safety on top of the receiver. Split the web between my thumb and index on that safety once then sold the gun.

[Rock]

I wish I can help you only think I ever heard is this: www.wikihow.com/Apply-Duracoat
But I know someone who knows everything...

[Cwi555]

Jul 24, 2013 18:26:08 GMT -7 geron said:

Anyone have personal experience with the Duracoat gun paint finish? I'm thinking of coating a truck gun that would be exposed to the extreme humidity in this area.

Also:
Been reading reviews on the H&R (NEF) Pardner protector a Chinese Rem 870 knock off. Think I would really rather find an old beat up 870 for about the same price. Don't like the Mossy 500 with the safety on top of the receiver. Split the web between my thumb and index on that safety once then sold the gun.

I've used it a few times, but no where near enough to be called an 'expert'. I would suggest checking the Brownells website, if my memory serves me correctly, they had some video's and other information on the subject.

[insaneh]

I got lucky. My new neighbor in the building is doing ceracoat. I'll be doing all of my "lawn equipment" with it.

[USCGME2]

My 870 is just spray painted with good quality paint from the store. It has worked well. It definitely looks homemade but, I like it.

[wtrfwlr]

Geron, I've sprayed about every brand of 2 part (catalyzed) paint out there, including Duracoat, it's perfect for what you're wanting to do. I went ahead and read through the link that Rock posted and it looks spot on for a step by step. A couple things I could add is that acetone can also be used for a cleaner/degreasing solvent. I would probably also rub it down with a red Scotchbrite pad to dull the shine off especially if it's a wood stock. Other than that the only thing is, try and apply the finish on a sunny low humidity day. I know that's hard to do where you are, just don't try and paint it on a still, muggy, rainy day because the solvents in the paint won't evaporate quickly enough and the finish will 'blush' and it could get little freckles or bumps, called 'solvent pop' on it.

If you have any questions just lemme know!

Oh...two other things, WEAR A RESPIRATOR! That hardener is very bad stuff to breath, seriously. Also clean you paint equipment out thoroughly as soon as your done, that crap will get rock hard even in the gun.....go ahead, ask me how I know!

[Cwi555]

Wtrfwlr,

I know the response was meant for someone else, but you just answered a questioned / problem I've been having with my attempts at duracoat related to 'blushing/freckles' as you called it.
Is there a specific humidity level to obtain best results?

Thanks in advance.

[geron]

Thanks BJ, Think I'll paint the one for the truck. Still have to keep a check on the metal working parts. Not sure how well a painted bolt would perform.

[wtrfwlr]

Jul 26, 2013 14:58:22 GMT -7 Cwi555 said:

Wtrfwlr,

I know the response was meant for someone else, but you just answered a questioned / problem I've been having with my attempts at duracoat related to 'blushing/freckles' as you called it.
Is there a specific humidity level to obtain best results?

Thanks in advance.

You betcha cwi, glad I could help.
I have never read or heard of a specific number, I think there are just too many variables involved? These are actually two different paint problems (blushing and freckles), I'll try and explain both since you have experienced this.

Freckles, as I call it, is actually known as 'solvent pop'. This is when the paint finish is applied and the solvents such as a thinner or reducer cannot evaporate properly from the coating. This can happen because the temperature is too high and the top surface of the paint coating dries and forms a film trapping the solvents underneath. Over time these solvents will gather and soften the top film and eventually it will soften enough so that they evaporate causing tiny bumps across the finish. It will look like there are millions of tiny pimples on the paint. This can also occur when there is high humidity or still and muggy conditions.

Blushing can also occur when applying finishes in the same conditions. What happens when a paint film blushes is the coating will appear to have a dull haze or a flat appearance, a gloss paint will look like a flat or semi-gloss paint, think of a bathroom mirror when you step out of a hot shower.

1. The 'fix' for both of these problems is too make sure you are mixing everything exactly according to the label.
2. Try and apply finishes in favorable weather conditions.
3. Make sure there is air flow across the surface of the paint.
4. Lower the humidity in the painting area with the use of an air conditioner or dehumidifier, it doesn't take alot, a small window unit in a garage or small shop running for a few hours can do wonders.
5. Make sure you are following the proper time allowance between coats, too fast of film build can also result in these problems.

I hope this explains it a little better, good luck painting and if you have any or questions about this or any other paint problem let know I'll be happy to help. Always remember it's all about the prep.

[wtrfwlr]

Jul 26, 2013 17:16:07 GMT -7 geron said:

Thanks BJ, Think I'll paint the one for the truck. Still have to keep a check on the metal working parts. Not sure how well a painted bolt would perform.

Happy to help Geron! Good luck with the project and if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask, as always we love before and after photos of your work!

[mrmike]

I have done several guns with duracoat and really like the stuff. I have about 10 or more years spraying automotive finishes so moving to duracoat was a breeze for me. I use an HVLP door jam gun to spray the guns. Nice thin coats. It lays down nice, dries fast, and seems to really take a beating.

Common paint problems
To avoid solvent pop, simply use thinner coats, allow longer dry times between coats.

To avoid fisheyes wipe down with a true paint prep solution like PPGs dx330, never acetone or a super fast drying solvent. All fast drying solvents do is collect contaminants and deposit them in one place.

To avoid allegation don't let the first coat dry too much. Allegation happens when paint dries a little too long and another coat is placed on top causing the first coat to wrinkle.

To avoid an orange peal look adjust your gun for a finer spray, or use more air, or back up from the part some. Again, 4 thin coats is better than 2 thick ones.

Rule of thumb for painting is 70 degrees and 50% humidity.

[mrmike]

Here are a couple pics of shotgun I did for a friend. The gun came in rusty with some pitting, pretty much a total mess. Took the whole gun down to bare bones, painted and serviced, replaced some parts.

Attachments:

[garret]

when i worked in a panel beaters a very long time ago (this was in the uk, not sure if it would apply to warmer climes) is we warmed the paint up first, not to boiling obviously but warming it made it flow better even after cutting it with a thinner, but as i say that might just have been the colder conditions in the uk.

another thing my father does when he sprays gun parts is he warms the part too, seems to make the paint finish stronger, but once again, this could just be a cold weather thing

[wtrfwlr]

Jul 27, 2013 7:16:23 GMT -7 garret said:

when i worked in a panel beaters a very long time ago (this was in the uk, not sure if it would apply to warmer climes) is we warmed the paint up first, not to boiling obviously but warming it made it flow better even after cutting it with a thinner, but as i say that might just have been the colder conditions in the uk.

another thing my father does when he sprays gun parts is he warms the part too, seems to make the paint finish stronger, but once again, this could just be a cold weather thing

Yep, back in the day's of enamel and acrylic enamel an electric hot plate was a fixture in most all paint booths. Those were also responsible for practically all bodyshops burning down too! With the advancements in paint technology today that is not necessary and with a catalyzed or hardner additive in the paint it probably be one balled up mess with today's paints. I must say though, those old timers could sure turn out some super slick paint jobs back then. I have done a few cars that the owner insisted that I do a old time hand rubbed lacquer job (10-15 coats of paint then wet sanded and buffed) and though they turn out drop dead gorgeous they don't last nearly as long as the newer polyurethane based coatings. That being said I still have a love for an acrylic enamel with gloss hardener hand rubbed with no clear coat, it gives such a deep rich color and gloss.

[mrmike]

Ideally your ambient air, compressed air, paint, and parts will all be the same temp. Todays modern paint is usually based at 70/50 as I mentioned but there is a safe range. I have painted in 100 degrees with 90% humidity and I have painted at 50 degrees and almost no humidity. I can say from experience that the upper and lower end of the window leads to poor results. High heat/humidity can lead to a hazy finish with a lot of shrink. Low temp/humidity leads to poor drying and more chance of sagging. I do love paint.

Wtrfwlr, the sweetest job I did was a red land rover, the owner wanted it "deep" and shiny. I used PPG single stage for the color, 3 coats with a wet sanding then 3 coats of clear, another wet sanding and another coat of clear that was then buffed. It was an expensive job but man oh man didn't that pop. I have always heard you can get best jobs from a lacquer, but your right it dosnt hold up and scratches easily.