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Post by cajunlady87 on Aug 30, 2013 12:34:09 GMT -7
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Post by woodyz on Aug 30, 2013 13:01:49 GMT -7
I have one very close to what you picture and it works best with two people but very well alone. The number one complaint would be that it does get caught or hang up when first starting the cut, especially if there is bark on the wood. If possible I would recommend removing a section of bark first.
I also have several of the so call survival or SAS saws that are a wire with a metal cutting substance attached and a key ring type of finger hold at each end. These work, but on smaller pieces and with a lot more effort. I would also add loops of rope or leather to the rings (like the chainsaw) allowing the whole hand to work them instead of just a finger.
It is my opinion they are better than a knife at cutting wood and better than a hatchet at cutting larger pieces of dead wood, I do not think they are better than a folding saw, put they are smaller to carry in a pack or pocket.
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Post by cajunlady87 on Aug 30, 2013 14:11:57 GMT -7
I have one very close to what you picture and it works best with two people but very well alone. The number one complaint would be that it does get caught or hang up when first starting the cut, especially if there is bark on the wood. If possible I would recommend removing a section of bark first. I also have several of the so call survival or SAS saws that are a wire with a metal cutting substance attached and a key ring type of finger hold at each end. These work, but on smaller pieces and with a lot more effort. I would also add loops of rope or leather to the rings (like the chainsaw) allowing the whole hand to work them instead of just a finger. It is my opinion they are better than a knife at cutting wood and better than a hatchet at cutting larger pieces of dead wood, I do not think they are better than a folding saw, put they are smaller to carry in a pack or pocket. Wow woodyz thanks a lot for all the great info and tips. I have one of the wire saws also and thanks for the tip of added loops of to the rings for easier use. I also read to keep them lubricated to prevent rusting and more in working order so to speak. I'm wondering if they can be resharpened and how to go about it; any ideas? |
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Post by woodyz on Aug 30, 2013 14:40:41 GMT -7
I have no idea how one would resharpen one of the wire saws, I have always considered them use until it stops working a throw away.
The chainsaws I will have to study on. You would think a chainsaw sharpener would work on them as well, but I don't want to say it will with out trying it first. Its going to depend on the material in the teeth and the angle they are set at. It maybe that a small round file would work best.
I will check it out and report back if someone doesn't already know.
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Post by cajunlady87 on Aug 30, 2013 15:02:14 GMT -7
I have no idea how one would resharpen one of the wire saws, I have always considered them use until it stops working a throw away. The chainsaws I will have to study on. You would think a chainsaw sharpener would work on them as well, but I don't want to say it will with out trying it first. Its going to depend on the material in the teeth and the angle they are set at. It maybe that a small round file would work best. I will check it out and report back if someone doesn't already know. Sorry I wasn't more explicit with my question, it was directed at the chain saw. I do know regular sized chain saw blades can be refiled, and I was wondering about these just in case the opportunity isn't there to replace them. A small round file or other micro file just may do the trick. Yes you can use a knife, axe, hatchet or machete to cut fire wood or small trees but I like adding as many options as I can to help myself with my gear.  |
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