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Post by woodyz on Nov 3, 2013 14:08:52 GMT -7
When defending, or when temporarily halted while making an attack, you must seek cover from fire and concealment from observation. Cover and concealment are best provided by some type of fighting position. This may be an existing hole, a hastily dug prone shelter, or a well-prepared position with overhead cover. The time available for preparation determines how well you build your position.
Your fighting position must:
• Allow you to fire.
• Protect you from observation and direct and indirect fire.
COVER
The cover of your fighting position must be strong enough to protect you from small arms fire, indirect fire fragments, and the blast wave of nuclear explosions. The position should have frontal cover to give protection from small arms fire from the front. Natural frontal cover (trees, rocks, logs, and rubble) is best, because it is hard for the enemy to detect a position that is concealed by natural cover. If natural cover is not available, use the dirt taken from the hole you dig to build additional cover. The cover can be improved by putting the dirt in sandbags and then wetting them.
Frontal cover must be:
• Thick enough (at least 46 cm [18 in] of dirt) to stop small arms fire.
• High enough to protect your head when you fire from behind the cover.
• Far enough in front of the hole to allow room for elbow holes and sector stakes so that you can fire to the oblique.
• Long enough to give you cover and hide the muzzle blast of your rifle when you fire to the oblique.
Your fighting position should be built so that, when you come under direct fire from your front, you can move behind the frontal cover for protection and yet fire to the oblique.
For all-round protection, to include protection from a nuclear attack, your position should also have overhead, flank, and rear cover. The dirt from the hole can also be used to build that cover, which protects against indirect fire that bursts overhead or to the flanks and rear of the position. Cover also guards against the effects of friendly weapons supporting from the rear, such as small arms fire or discarding sabot rounds fired from tanks. You should leave crawl spaces in the rear cover. This lets you enter and leave the position without exposing yourself to the enemy.
To increase your chances of survival in a nuclear attack, you should insure that your fighting position incorporates the following considerations:
• Rounded walls hold up better against a blast wave than square or rectangular walls, and rounded walls are easier to dig.
• Small openings help keep out radiation. Most nuclear radiation in the bottom of the position is scattered into the position through the opening.
• Deeper fighting positions place a greater thickness of shielding material or earth between you and the nuclear detonation therefore, deep positions provide greater reduction of initial radiation entering the hole. Radiation is reduced by a factor of two for each 16 inches of hole depth.
• Low body positions put more dirt between you and the source of radiation. Curling upon your side or, better yet, lying on your back with knees drawn up to the chest is best. Tucked-up legs and arms tend to shield the body from radiation.
• Thermal radiation enters your fighting position by line of sight or by reflection off the sides. Dark and rough materials (such as wool blankets and shelter halves) can be used to cover potential reflecting surfaces.
CONCEALMENT
If your position can be detected, it can be hit by enemy fire. If it can be hit, you can be killed in it. Therefore, your position must be so well hidden that the enemy will have a hard time detecting it even after he is in hand-grenade range.
Natural, undisturbed concealment is better than man-made concealment because:
• It is already prepared.
• It usually will not attract the enemy's attention.
• It need not be replaced.
While digging your position, try not to disturb the natural concealment around it. Put the unused dirt from the hole behind the position and camouflage it.
Camouflage material that does not have to be replaced (rocks, logs, live bushes, and grass) is best. You should not use so much camouflage that your position looks different from its surroundings.
Your position must be concealed from enemy aircraft as well as from ground troops. If the position is under a bush or tree, or in a building, it is less likely to be seen from above. Leaves, straw, or grass placed on the floor of the hole will keep the fresh earth from contrasting with the ground around it. Do not use sticks, as they may stop grenades from rolling into the grenade sumps.
Man-made concealment must blend with its surroundings so that it cannot be detected.
SECTORS AND FIELDS OF FIRE
The sectors of fire are those areas into which you must observe and fire. When your leader assigns you a fighting position, he should also assign you a primary and a secondary sector of fire. The primary sector of fire is to the oblique of your position, and the secondary sector of fire is to the front.
To be able to see and fire into your sectors of fire, you may have to clear some vegetation and other obstructions from them. That is called clearing a field of fire.
When clearing a field of fire:
• Do not disclose your position by careless or too much clearing.
• Leave a thin, natural screen of vegetation to hide your position.
• Cut off lower branches of large, scattered trees in sparsely wooded areas.
• Clear underbrush only where it blocks your view.
• Remove cut brush, limbs, and weeds so the enemy will not spot them.
• Cover cuts on trees and bushes forward of your position with mud, dirt, or snow.
• Leave no trails as clues for the enemy.
A field of fire to the front is needed out to the range of your weapon.
A field of fire to the oblique lets you hit the attackers from an unexpected angle. It also lets you support the positions next to you. When fired to the oblique, your fire interlocks with the fire of other positions. That helps create a wall of fire that the enemy must pass through.
HOW TO BUILD FIGHTING POSITIONS
HASTY FIGHTING POSITION
When there is little time for preparation, build a hasty fighting position. It should be behind whatever cover is available. It should give frontal cover from enemy direct fire but allow firing to the front and the oblique. The term hasty does not mean that there is no digging.
If there is a natural hole or ditch available, use it. If not, dig a prone shelter that will give some protection. The hole should be about one-half meter (18 to 20 in) deep. Use the dirt from the hole to build cover around the edge of the position.
TWO-MAN FIGHTING POSITION
In the defense, you and another soldier will build a two-man fighting position. Improve your position as time permits.
Keep the hole small. The smaller the hole, the less likely it is that rounds, grenades, or airburst fragments will get into it. It should be large enough for you and your buddy in full combat gear. It should extend beyond the edges of the frontal cover enough to let you and your buddy observe and fire to the front. The hole is usually dug straight, but it may be curved around the frontal cover.
Curving the hole around the frontal cover may be necessary in close terrain to allow better observation and fire to the front and to the next flank position. To curve the hole, simply extend one or both ends of it around the frontal cover.
A curved hole lets one of you watch for the enemy to the front while the other sleeps or eats. Also, you can observe and fire to the front when not being fired at, and move back behind the frontal cover when under heavy fire.
On a steep slope, a straight hole may not let you stay behind frontal cover and fire at attackers. You may have to stand up and expose yourself to the attackers' fire.
To avoid such exposure, dig firing ports in each end of the hole. The ground between the firing ports will then be additional frontal cover.
Dig the hole armpit deep. This lowers your profile and still lets you fire. Other dimensions should be the length of two M16s and the width of two bayonets.
Leave enough distance between the hole and the frontal cover to make a shelf where you can put your elbows when firing.
Dig elbow holes to keep your elbows from moving around when you fire. Your fire will then be more accurate.
If you or your buddy has an automatic rifle, dig a small trench to stabilize its bipod legs.
Hammer in sector stakes (right and left) to define your sectors of fire. Sector stakes prevent accidental firing into friendly positions. Tree limbs about 46 cm (18 in) long make good stakes. The stakes must be sturdy and must stick out of the ground high enough to keep your rifle from being pointed out of your sector.
Hammer in aiming stakes to help you fire into dangerous approaches at night and at other times when visibility is poor. Forked tree limbs about 30 cm (12 in) long make good stakes. Put one stake near the edge of the hole to rest the stock of your rifle on. Then put another stake forward of the rear (first) stake toward each dangerous approach. The forward stakes are used to hold the rifle barrel. To change the direction of your fire from one approach to another, move the rifle barrel from one forward stake to another. Leave the stock of the rifle on the rear stake.
Dig two grenade sumps in the floor (one on each end). If the enemy throws a grenade into the hole, kick or throw it into one of the sumps. The sump will absorb most of the blast. The rest of the blast will be directed straight up and out of the hole. Dig the grenade sumps:
• As wide as the entrenching tool blade.
• At least as deep as an entrenching tool.
• As long as the position floor is wide.
For water drainage, slope the floor of the hole toward the grenade sumps. This may also . cause grenades to roll into the sumps.
Build overhead cover for protection against airburst fragments. Build the overhead cover either across the center of the hole or off to its flanks.
When center overhead cover would not make a position easy to detect, build it. Put support logs 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in) in diameter on top of each other along the entire length of the frontal and rear cover.
Put logs 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in) in diameter side by side across the support logs as the base for the overhead cover.
Put a water-repellent layer, such as C-ration boxes or a poncho, over the base logs. This helps keep water from leaking through the overhead cover.
Then put 15 to 20 cm (6 to 8 in) of dirt on top of the waterproofing material. Finally, mold and camouflage the cover to blend with the terrain.
When center overhead cover would make your position easy to detect, build flank over-head cover. That method gives both you and your buddy your own overhead cover. However, neither of you can observe or fire into your sectors of fire while under it.
When flank overhead cover is used, dig only one grenade sump. Dig it in the center of the floor against the back wall and slope the floor toward it.
Dig out an area for flank overhead cover at each end of the position:
• About 30 cm (12 in) deep.
• Long enough to extend about 45 cm (18 in) beyond both sides of the hole.
• About 1 meter (3 ft) wide.
Save the sod for camouflage.
Next, place support logs, about 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in) in diameter, across the dug-out holes. This will support the rest of the overhead cover material. Put a water-repellent layer, such as C-ration boxes or a poncho, over the support logs. This helps keep water from leaking through the overhead cover.
Then put 15 to 20 cm (6 to 8 in) of dirt on top of the waterproofing material. Cover the dirt with the sod and camouflage it.
Then get in the hole and dig out a cave-like compartment at each end of the position under the overhead cover. Dig your compartment large enough for you and your equipment. Dig your buddy's compartment large enough for him and his equipment.
In sandy or loose soil, the sides of your position may requirerevetments to keep them from collapsing. Use such things as mesh wire, boards, or logs for revetting. Tie anchor string, rope, or wire to the revetting material and stake them down. Drive the stakes into the ground. This hides them and keeps them from being mistaken for aiming stakes or sector stakes.
ONE-MAN FIGHTING POSITION
Sometimes you may have to build and occupy a one-man fighting position. Except for its size, a one-man position is built the same way as a two-man fighting position. The hole of a one-man position is only large enough for you and your equipment.
MACHINE GUN FIGHTING POSITION
If you are in a machine gun crew, you and the other members must build a machine gun fighting position. However, before you can start work on the position, your leader must:
• Position the machine gun.
• Assign it a primary (and a secondary, if required) sector of fire.
• Assign it a principal direction of fire (PDF) or final protective line (FPL).
NOTE: The FPL is a line on which the gun fires grazing fire across the unit's front. Grazing fire is fired 1 meter above the ground. When an FPL is not assigned, a PDF is. A PDF is a direction toward which the gun must be pointed when not firing at targets in other parts of its sector.
The first thing to do when building a machine gun position is to mark the position of the tripod legs. Then mark the sectors of fire with sector stakes, and trace the outline of the hole and its frontal cover on the ground.
For an M60 machine gun position, dig two firing platforms for the gun. One platform is on the primary sector of fire side of the position, and the machine gun tripod is used on this platform. The other platform is on the secondary sector of fire side of the position, and the machine gun biped is used when firing on this platform. A trench must be dug for the bipod legs.
The firing platforms reduce the profile of the gunner. They also reduce the height of the frontal cover needed. The firing platforms must not, however, be so low that the gun cannot be traversed across its sector of fire.
In some cases, the floor of the platforms may need to be lined with sandbags. Also, sandbags may be needed on each tripod leg to keep it from moving.
After the firing platforms have been dug, prepare your range card (app I) and then dig your hole. Dig the hole in the shape of an inverted T. The top of the T, however, must be longer than the shaft of the T. Dig the hole deep enough to, protect the crew and still let the gunner fire the machine gun (usually about armpit deep). Use the dirt from the hole to build frontal, flank, and rear cover. The frontal cover is built first. When the frontal cover is high and thick enough, use the rest of the dirt to build flank and rear cover.
Dig three grenade sumps, one at each end of the T. Dig the grenade sumps like those in a two-man fighting position.
Build the overhead cover for the position like that for a two-man fighting position.
When an M60 machine gun has only one sector of fire, dig only half of the position (only one firing platform).
When there is a three-man crew for an M60 machine gun, the third man (the ammunition bearer) digs a one-man fighting position. Usually, his position is on the same side of the machine gun as its FPL or PDF. From that position, he can observe and fire into the machine gun's secondary sector and, at the same time, see the gunner and assistant gunner. The ammunition bearer's position is connected to the machine gun position by a crawl trench so that he can bring ammunition to the gun or replace the gunner or the assistant gunner.
In a caliber .50 machine gun position, dig only one firing platform for the gun. Dig the platform below ground level, like that for an M60 machine gun except deeper. Because of the gun's vibrations, you may have to line the floor of the platform with sandbags. Sandbags may also be needed on each tripod leg to keep it from moving. Also, the walls of the platform may need revetments.
After digging the platform, prepare your range card and then dig your hole. The hole should be the shape of an L, with the platform in the center of the L. Dig the hole deep enough to protect the crew and still let the gunner fire the machine gun (usually about armpit deep). Use the dirt from the hole to build frontal, flank, and rear cover. Build the frontal cover first. When that is completed, use the rest of the dirt to build flank and rear cover.
Dig two grenade sumps, one at both ends of the L, like those in a two-man fighting position. Build the overhead cover like that for a two-man fighting position.
DRAGON FIGHTING POSITION
The Dragon can be fired from either a one-man or a two-man fighting position. However, you must make some changes in the positions. Like the machine gun, a Dragon needs a range card. Prepare it before digging your hole.
Dig the hole wide enough to let the muzzle end of the launcher extend 15 cm (6 in) beyond the front of the hole and the rear of the launcher extend out over the rear of the hole. This is to keep the backblast out of the hole.
Dig the hole only waist deep on the side the Dragon will be fired from. This lets you move while tracking. Dig the other side of the hole armpit deep. Also, dig a small hole for the biped legs in front of the hole. Because of your height above the ground when firing the Dragon, build frontal cover high enough to hide you and, if feasible, the backblast.
Build overhead cover on the flanks of the position. Build it large enough for you, your equipment, and the Dragon. Overhead cover is not usually built across the center of the hole in a Dragon position. The center overhead cover would have to be so high that it would be easy for the enemy to spot.
Clear the backblast area before firing the weapon. That means checking to see if any soldiers are in the backblast area or if any walls, large trees, or other things are in a position to deflect the backblast. If the weapon is to be fired from a two-man fighting position, make sure that the other soldier in the hole is not in the backblast area.
90-MM RECOILLESS RIFLE FIGHTING POSITION
Build a 90-mm recoilless rifle (RCLR) position like a Dragon position, but dig the hole a little longer when firing to the right side of the frontal cover. That lets the assistant gunner work from the right side of the RCLR. Prepare your range card before digging the hole. Also, clear the backblast area before firing the RCLR.
LIGHT ANTITANK WEAPON (M72A2) AND FLAME ASSAULT SHOULDER WEAPON (FLASH) FIGHTING POSITION
There is no special fighting position for the M72A2 or FLASH. They can be fired from any fighting position. Before firing any of these weapons, clear the backblast area.
TRENCHES
When there is time, dig trenches to connect fighting positions. Trenches provide covered routes between positions. The depth of the trenches depends on the time and type of help and equipment available to dig them. Without engineer help, crawl trenches about 1 meter (3 feet) deep and two thirds of a meter (2 feet) wide are probably all that can be dug. Dig the trenches zigzagged so that the enemy will not be able to fire down a long section if he gets into the trench, and so that shrapnel from shell bursts will lose some of its effectiveness.
STORAGE COMPARTMENTS
A fighting position should have a place for storing equipment and ammunition. When your position has overhead cover across its center, dig a storage compartment in the bottom of the back wall. The size of the compartment depends on the amount of equipment and ammunition to be stored.
When your position has flanked overhead cover, use the compartments dug for the overhead cover as storage compartments.
If you dig your storage compartment large enough, it may provide extra space in which you can stretch out while sleeping. This lets you sleep inside the position and under cover.
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A patrol base is a position set up when a squad or platoon conducting a patrol halts for an extended period. Patrol bases should be occupied no longer than 24 hours, except in an emergency. The platoon or squad never uses the same patrol base twice. Platoons and squads use patrol bases--
• To stop all movement to avoid detection.
• To hide during a long, detailed reconnaissance of an objective area.
• To eat, clean weapons and equipment, and rest.
• To plan and issue orders.
• To reorganize after infiltrating an enemy area.
• To have a base from which to conduct several consecutive or concurrent operations such as ambush, raid, reconnaissance, or security.
SITE SELECTION
The leader selects the tentative site from a map or by aerial reconnaissance. The site's suitability must be confirmed; it must be secured before occupation. Plans to establish a patrol base must include selecting an alternate patrol base site. The alternate site is used if the first site is unsuitable or if the patrol must unexpectedly evacuate the first patrol base.
PLANNING CONSIDERATIONS
Leaders planning for a patrol base must consider the mission and passive and active security measures.
a. Mission. A patrol base must be located so it allows the unit to accomplish its mission.
b. Security Measures. Security measures involve the following.
(1) The leader selects--
o Terrain that the enemy would probably consider of little tactical value.
o Terrain that is off main lines of drift.
o Difficult terrain that would impede foot movement such as an area of dense vegetation, preferably bushes and trees that spread close to the ground.
o Terrain near a source of water.
o Terrain that can be defended for a short period and that offers good cover and concealment.
(2) The leader plans for--
o Observation posts.
o Communication with observation posts.
o Defense of the patrol base.
o Withdrawal from the patrol base to include withdrawal routes and a rally point, or rendezvous point or alternate patrol base.
o A security system to make sure that specific soldiers are awake at all times.
o Enforcement of camouflage, noise, and light discipline.
o The conduct of required activities with minimum movement and noise.
(3) The leader avoids--
o Known or suspected enemy positions.
o Built-up areas.
o Ridges and hilltops, except as needed for maintaining communication.
o Roads and trails.
o Small valleys.
PATROL BASE OCCUPATION
A patrol base is established using the following steps. a. The patrol base is reconnoitered and established the same as an ORP or RRP, except that the platoon will enter at a 90-degree turn (Figure 3-22.)
NOTE: This action is METT-T dependent; if there is nothing to be gained by doing this step, then the unit does not do it (for example, flat desert terrain.
b. The platoon leader leaves a two-man OP at the turn. The platoon sergeant and the last fire team will get rid of any tracks from the turn into the patrol base.
c. The platoon moves into the patrol base as depicted in Figure 3-22. (Squads will occupy a cigar-shaped perimeter.)
d. All squad leaders move to the left flank of their squad sector.
e. The platoon leader and support element or weapons squad leader start at 6 o'clock and move in a clockwise manner adjusting the perimeter (meeting each squad leader at his squad's left flank). If the platoon leader and support element leader find a better location for one of the machine guns, they reposition it.
f. After the platoon leader has checked each squad's sector, the squad leader and another squad member report to the CP as an R&S team.
g. The platoon leader issues the three R&S teams a contingency plan and remind them that they are looking for the enemy, water, built-up areas or human habitat, roads and trails, and any possible rally points. (Squads occupying patrol base on their own do not send out R&S teams at night.)
h. The R&S team departs from the left flank of their squad's sector and moves out a given distance, as stated by the platoon leader in his instructions. The team moves in a clockwise direction and reenters the patrol base at the right flank of their squad's sector. The R&S team, if at all possible, should prepare a sketch of the squad's front and report to the CP.
NOTE 1: The distance the R&S team moves away from the squad's sector will vary depending on the terrain and vegetation (anywhere from 200 to 400 meters). All members of the platoon are on 100 percent alert during this time. The R&S team is of little value at night without the use of night vision devices. The RATELO must be able to establish communications with higher headquarters using a directional antenna.
NOTE 2: If the platoon leader feels that the platoon may have been tracked, he may elect to maintain 100 percent security and wait awhile in total silence before sending out the R&S teams.
i. Once all squad leaders (R&S teams) have completed their reconnaissance, they report back to the platoon leader at the CP.
j. The platoon leader gathers the information from his three R&S teams and determines if the platoon is going to be able to use the location as a patrol base.
PATROL BASE ACTIVITIES
If the platoon leader determines that he will be able to use the location as a patrol base, he gives the following information to his platoon sergeant and squad leaders. Platoon leader also disseminates other information such as daily challenge and password, frequencies, call signs. Squad leaders return to their squads, give out information, and begin the priorities of work as stated by the platoon leader. The patrol base must be sterilized upon departure.
a. Security. Only one point of entry and exit is used. Noise and light discipline are maintained at all times. Everyone is challenged. Squad leaders supervise the placement of aiming stakes and ensure Claymores are put out. Each squad establishes an OP and may quietly dig hasty fighting positions. Squad leaders prepare and turn in sector sketches to include range cards.
b. Alert Plan. The platoon leader states the alert posture (for example, 50 percent or 33 percent) and the stand-to time for day and night. He sets up the plan to ensure positions are checked periodically, OPs are relieved periodically, and ensure that at least one leader is up at all times.
c. Withdrawal Plan. Platoon leader designates which signal to use if contact is made (for example, colored star cluster), the order of withdrawal if forced out (for example, squads not in contact will move first), and the rendezvous point for the platoon (if the platoon is not to link up at an alternate patrol base).
d. Maintenance Plan. Platoon leader ensures that machine guns, other weapon systems, communication equipment, NVDs are not broken down at the same time for maintenance. Redistribute ammunition.
NOTE: Weapons are not disassembled at night.
e. Sanitation and Personal Hygiene Plan. The platoon sergeant ensures the platoon slit trench is dug and marked at night with a chemical light inside the trench. Squad leaders designate squad urine areas. All soldiers accomplish the following daily: shave; brush teeth; wash face, hands, armpits, groin, and feet; and darken (polish) boots. Soldiers ensure that no trash is left behind.
f. Mess Plan. No more than half of the platoon eats at one time.
g. Water Resupply. Platoon sergeant organizes a watering party. They carry canteens in an empty rucksack.
NOTE: Squads have the same requirements with their squad patrol base as platoons.
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OBSERVATION POSTS
Observation posts are positions where soldiers watch and listen for enemy activity in an assigned area OPs provide security and intelligence for the platoon. Platoons establish and maintain OPs as the company commander directs (normally one per platoon).
CONSIDERATIONS
When planning an OP the platoon leader must consider the following.
a. Siting. Normally the platoon leader identifies the general location and the squad leader selects the actual site for the OP.
(1) OPs must be sited to allow observation of the designated area.
(2) OPs should also be sited to take advantage of natural cover and concealment to provide protection for the soldiers manning it.
(3) OPs should be located within small-arms range of the platoon positions.
b. Observation. When he identifies the general location for the OP. the platoon leader must also indicate the area to be observed and any specific instructions covering what soldiers are to look for or be especially alert to. The area observed may be a sector, one or more avenues of approach (normally one per OP), a named area of interest (NAI), or a target reference point (TRP). OPs should also require minimal repositioning for limited visibility.
c. Cover and Concealment. Sometimes the requirement for fields of observation may make it difficult to achieve cover and concealment. Some techniques include--
• Avoid obvious terrain such as hilltops.
• Avoid easily identifiable terrain features such as water towers, church steeples, tallest buildings, lone buildings or trees, or isolated groves.
• Avoid routes or positions that skyline soldiers.
• Select a covered and concealed route to and from the OP.
d. Communications. Soldiers must be able to report what they see and hear. Wire is the primary means of communications between the OP and the platoon. If possible, the OP should have radio communications as a backup. An additional soldier may be added as a messenger if no other means of communication is available. The SOP should specify how often OPs make routine communications checks. When the platoon loses wire communications with the OP, the leader always details at least two soldiers to check and repair the line--one for security, one for repair. Soldiers checking for breaks in wire should always approach the OP with caution in case the enemy has captured and occupied it.
e. Manning. At least two soldiers must man each OP. A fire team may man the OP if it will remain in place or not be relieved for long periods. All soldiers prepare fighting positions at the OP for protection and concealment. Additionally, each soldier must have a prepared position to return to in the platoon position.
f. Additional Instructions. In addition to the intelligence and security reporting requirements, the squad leader also briefs the soldiers manning the OP on the challenge and password, the running password, when to engage and when not to engage the enemy, conditions when the OP can withdraw, when to expect relief, and contingency plans for loss of communications.
g. Equipment. Special equipment for the OP includes binoculars, maps, a compass, night vision devices (goggles or an antiarmor thermal sight), trip flares and other alert devices, a field phone, paper and pencil, and a watch.
ACTIONS AT THE OBSERVATION POST
Once the squad leader has positioned and briefed the soldiers at the OP site, one soldier always observes and records while the remainder perform(s) the actions listed below:
• Establish security. Install trip flares and noise-making devices.
• Prepare positions to include range cards. Record data for use in requesting and adjusting fire; for example, azimuths and ranges to TRPs.
• Make communications checks or report as required.
• Rotate duty as the observer every 20 to 30 minutes. An observer's efficiency quickly decreases after that time.
• Brief relieving soldiers on any information or special instructions before departing the OP. The frequency of reliefs for OPs depends on the physical condition of the soldiers, weather conditions, morale, the number of soldiers available for relief, and the requirements of the next operation. As a guide, OPs should be relieved every two to four hours.
• Withdraw as directed or to avoid capture. Soldiers manning the OP advise the platoon leader that they are returning and request support (direct or indirect) if needed. Leaders must alert all soldiers in the platoon when reliefs move to or from the OP, and when it withdraws.
SQUAD-SIZED OBSERVATION POST
A squad may occupy one OP to add security and combat power when the platoon has a mission to screen the flank of a larger force or to secure a large area. The squad-sized OP allows the platoon to observe from OPs and to conduct patrols between them. Leaders use the same considerations listed above in planning and siting squad-sized OPs. The squad leader spreads his soldiers out in two-or three-soldier positions. Each position acts as an OP to observe an assigned sector.
VISUAL TERRAIN SEARCH
A visual terrain search involves the two steps discussed below. (See Section XIVfor a detailed discussion of night vision.) Observation posts report all information quickly, accurately, and completely. They make sure that the report answers the questions WHO, WHAT, WHERE, and WHEN. It is best to use the SALUTE format when reporting information.
a. Step 1. The observer makes an overall search of the entire area for obvious targets, unnatural colors, outlines, or movement. To do this quickly, he raises his eyes from just in front of his position to the greatest range he wants to observe. If the sector is wide, he observes it in sections. (Figure 2-88.)
b. Step 2. He observes overlapping 50-meter wide strips, alternating. from left to right and right to left until he has observed the entire area. (Figure 2-89.) When he sees a suspicious spot, he searches it well.
LIMITED VISIBILITY TECHNIQUES
The infantry fights at night to take advantage of limited visibility. The use of NVDs and scanning techniques aids the infantryman in operating during all limited visibility conditions. This section provides techniques for improving and maintaining night vision, and techniques for attacks during limited visibility.
NIGHT VISION
Darkness affects the senses of sight, hearing, and smell. Sharpening these senses requires training. Soldiers must know how their eyes function at night to best use them.
a. Night Vision Scanning. Dark adaptation is only the first step toward making the greatest use of night vision. Scanning enables soldiers to overcome many of the physiological limitations of their eyes. It can also reduce confusing visual illusions. This technique involves looking from right to left or left to right using a slow, regular scanning movement (Figure 2-92). At night, it is essential to avoid looking directly at a faintly visible object when trying to confirm its presence.
b. Use of Off-Center Vision. The technique of viewing an object using central vision is ineffective at night. This is due to the night blind spot that exists during low illumination. Soldiers must learn to use off-center vision. This technique requires viewing an object by looking 10 degrees above, below, or to either side of it rather than directly at it (Figure 2-93).
c. Countering of the Bleach-Out Effect. Even when soldiers practice off-center viewing, the image of an object bleaches out and becomes a solid tone when viewed longer than two to three seconds. By shifting his eyes from one off-center point to another, the soldier can continue to pick up the object in his peripheral field of vision.
d. Shape or Silhouette. Visual sharpness is greatly reduced at night; therefore, objects must be recognized by their shape or outline. Knowing the design of structures common to the area of operations enhances success with this technique.
DARK ADAPTATION
Dark adaptation is the process by which the human body increases the eyes' sensitivity to low levels of light.
a. Soldiers adapt to darkness at varying degrees and rates. During the first 30 minutes in the dark, eye sensitivity increases about 10,000 times, but not much alter that.
b. Dark adaptation is affected by exposure to bright light such as matches, flashlights, flares, or vehicle headlights. Full recovery from these exposures can take up to 45 minutes.
c. Using night vision goggles impedes adaptation. However, if a soldier adapts to the dark before donning the goggles, he gains full dark adaptation within 2 minutes when they are removed.
d. Soldiers must know that color perception decreases at night. They may be able to distinguish light and dark colors depending on the intensity of reflected light.
e. Visual acuity is also reduced. Since visual sharpness at night is one-seventh of what it is during the day, soldiers can see only large, bulky objects. This means that object identification at night is based on generalized contours and outlines. Depth perception is also affected.
CAUTION _____________________________________________________________
Although night vision devices can help the soldier see at night, they degrade the other senses. Ability to hear, smell, and feel decreases because of the concentration required to use NVDs effectively. Leaders should prepare for night operations by using all the senses. On certain operations, this may require that some soldiers not use NVDs.
PLANNING THE USE OF NIGHT VISION/SENSOR ASSETS
Leaders must develop a night vision plan that interlocks sectors of NVD employment much like that planned for interlocking weapon fire sectors. Often, using NVDs requires repositioning to ensure full coverage of an area. Thermal sights should be kept on a wide field of view until engagement or sector coverage will have gaps. To best use weapons with image intensification nightsights, some NVDs should be used forward of the firing positions to aid in target identification. Night OPs using NVDs can provide target identification for direct-fire weapons and then, with the use of tracers, quickly direct fire onto targets. Use of a three-soldier element at squad level during movement can enhance enemy detection and destruction.
• One soldier uses unsupported night-adapted vision.
• One soldier uses the AN/PVS-7.
• One soldier uses the AN/PVS-4 mounted on the M16 rifle.
NIGHT OPERATION TIPS AND TECHNIQUES
To the infantryman, the dark of night is a helper. It offers advantages to the soldier familiar with operating during darkness, but to those not familiar with darkness, the known appears to become the unknown.
a. Land Navigation.
(1) Routes may be marked with chemical lights, flashlights, or cans filled with diesel-soaked dirt and set alight. Special precautions must be taken to ensure that markers are shielded from enemy observation.
(2) Luminous panels can be used to identify vehicles, road guards, and turning points. Panels are arranged in various patterns for different unit identification.
b. Equipment.
(1) The first rule of night operations: do not ignore the night capability of devices not usually considered night operations equipment; for example:
o Binoculars, direct-fire scope, or any image-magnifying optical equipment will also enhance night vision because they focus more light in the eye than the unaided eye can gather.
o The lensatic compass has luminous markings and detents that allow it to be set for night navigation without using a light.
(2) Ground surveillance radars are effective when oriented along the direction of attack to report and correct deviations for the attacking force. GSRs are also effective when employed in combination with thermal sight equipment to overwatch movement of attacking forces.
(3) At ranges of less than 800 meters, operators tend to underestimate range by as much as 25 percent. Range estimation errors can be reduced by teaching operators to relate targets to terrain features at ranges determined by daylight reconnaissance and map study.
(4) Rough triangulation from two or more night observation posts is useful in reducing range estimation errors.
(5) For moving targets, a ground surveillance radar can provide effective target location information.
(6) Seismic, magnetic, and electromagnetic sensors can detect the presence of personnel or vehicles; however, these systems cannot discriminate between types of vehicles or between civilians and enemy. For this reason, night observation devices must be used in combination with sensors.
(7) Long-range systems and devices are employed at the maximum range that terrain and operator expertise will allow to permit early identification of advancing targets.
(8) Proper use of infrared aiming devices, such as the AN/PAQ-4(A), can greatly enhance a platoon's night fighting capability. Care must be taken to ensure that the devices are properly mounted and zeroed to the weapon. Indiscriminate or unsupervised use can result in compromising a platoon's position, whether in offense or defense. Proper use of scatter shields can significantly reduce this risk of early detection. These devices may be particularly effective in a MOUT environment.
c. Illumination.
(1) Flares should be dropped at irregular intervals beyond and on line with the objective to provide orientation. This technique compromises surprise, however, and should be used only in emergency situations or when a subunit becomes so disoriented it hampers mission success.
(2) Areas other than the attack areas may be illuminated to mislead the enemy.
d. Smoke Obscurants.
(1) White phosphorus smoke can be fired on the objective as a heading reference.
(2) Smoke is as effective at night as in the day in reducing visibility. Except for thermal imagery devices, electro-optical night observation devices cannot penetrate heavy smoke.
e. Security.
(1) Noise signatures are reduced as much as possible.
(2) Rock-filled cans suspended on barrier wire or across approach routes into defensive positions can provide intrusion warning.
(3) Blue light is much more difficult to see at night than red light. Unlike red light, however it dots not hamper night vision.
(4) Command posts and trains have problems with security at night because of their high noise signature from generators. The noise may be masked by placing generators in pits and surrounding them with bales of hay or vehicles. Placing generators in wooded or built-up areas not only helps dampen the noise, but scatters it as well, making it harder to pinpoint the noise source.
f. Engineer. Engineer missions do not change during darkness, but employment may. For a night attack, the engineers move forward with infantry to begin breaching operations under cover of darkness; they must mark their breaches, however, so the main body can find them with a minimum of trouble. Chemical lights or fluorescent tape on stakes is a good technique. The first unit to move through the breach sends back guides to meet other units and guide them through the enemy obstacle system.
g. Maneuver.
(1) All night maneuvers are kept simple. Complex operations at night may not work.
(2) Animals of all types--cows, monkeys, wild boars, horses, dogs, buffalo--have been used successfully by other armies throughout history to probe enemy defenses and cause the defender to reveal gun positions, minefields, barriers, and wire.
(3) Commanders should consider occupying alternate or supplementary positions after dark so that the attacker's artillery fires and assault will be directed against an unoccupied area.
(4) Consideration should be given to relocating reserves after dark, since the enemy may prefer to use artillery rather than maneuver to breakup counterattacks.
(5) Reserve units whose position has been detected in the daytime should be moved, if at all possible.
h. Personnel.
(1) Apprehension rises significantly during darkness, and it becomes more difficult to get soldiers to eat, especially if combat is anticipated. They must then contend with the natural "low" that occurs between 0300 and 0600 hours.
(2) Sleep deprivation has numerous effects on the body, and commanders should be aware of this during planning.
(3) When planning night operations, consideration must be given to the method that will be used to mark locations where casualties are to be collected so they can be found by medical personnel and evacuated. Collecting casualties at the assault position or objective rally point is a technique that can speed evacuation.
(4) The commander of a unit that is to conduct a night attack must give thought to his litter teams, especially how he will man them.
(5) Aidmen must reconnoiter the routes from casualty collection points to the battalion aid station during daylight and again during darkness. This is especially critical during a night defense.
i. Combat Service Support.
(1) Leaders should plan for a significant increase in consumption of batteries, flashlights, and illumination rounds (including tracers) when planning for night operations.
(2) If aerial resupply is to be used, a method to guide the aircraft into position is required. A directional light source, such as a strobe light or a chemical light on a helmet, may be used.
(3) Ammunition prestock efforts require careful planning if they are to be effective. Prestock locations must be clearly identified and marked so they can be found during darkness, even by a unit other than the one that installed the prestock
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In the event that things go bad, skills that are considered on-the-job Training in Infantry and Spec Ops units are handy to know.
Today we’re going to go over 54 of them that you should commit to memory. While this was a collaboration with Doc from RSKTKR, none of us can take credit for this list, but felt it was important enough to share.
These are tips we’ve collected over the years from various sources including Gunnys, Chiefs, our lessons learned in the service and comments made around the net.
Grunt Tips
1. Unpredictability is paramount, never use the same NDP (Night Defensive Perimeter) twice; never use the same ambush site twice and don’t travel in straight lines. Becoming predictable could be your last mistake. No matter how careful you’ve been, it’s always possible you’ve been compromised and don’t know it. If the enemy can’t predict where you’ll be, he can’t ambush you.
2. When you conduct reconnaissance do not go directly in the direction you’re headed. It’s a good idea to travel in another direction and then perform a zigzag with many changes of direction. Make the enemy track you and not be able to run in a straight line to your team. Even crossing your own tracks allows your team to see whether they are being tracked. Another extremely important tip is to never go back the way you came. The consequences could be deadly.
3. Trust your instincts but do not engage in a competition on tactics. Follow all basic rules. The last man should try to repair your trail whenever possible. Make the enemy have to search harder to find you.
4. Just because a spot looks good for a hide or an NDP, doesn’t mean you should use it. Analyze the area from an enemy’s point of view; where would you look for an enemy’s hide?
5. Never hide near or in any man-made structures or features. They attract attention and are the first places your enemy will look when they’re trying to find you. The most hostile environments are the ones less searched. i.e. a cliff.
remember:
Shape.
Shine.
Shadow.
Spacing. – natural objects are never evenly spaced
Silhouette.
sudden movement.
6. When filling or filtering water from streams, be aware that any silt you stir up will travel downstream, alerting others of your presence.
7. When taking a dump in the woods, always bring your weapon. The enemy may approach while you’re unarmed and defenseless. Bring along a small plastic bag for your used paper rather than burying it. You can bury the dump, but without paper remaining how can the enemy decide whose crap it is; his or his enemy’s? If you’re with a buddy inform them so they know it is you returning back, establish a specific sound for you to make prior to visual confirmation.
8. It’s better to have multiple canteens/Nalgenes than one and a five gallon bag in your ruck to fill from. It’s easier to exchange an empty one with a full one. A 5 gallon bag also causes loud sloshing and shifting of weight which may cause your pack to shimmer enough for the enemy to see you. Remember Murphy’s Law – If you can see the enemy, he can see you too. when using a camelbak or something similar avoid having air in it to reduce sloshing noise. flip it upside down to make the air go upwards and remove it through the tube.
9. Watch for trip wires, booby traps and try not to step on twigs. Hearing a twig breaking can travel farther than you think. try to remain calm and if possible attempt to figure out which side the sound came from as to take cover.
10. Other than health reasons, don’t smoke; the exhale of your cigarette smoke can be seen and smelled by your enemy.
11. Don’t keep looking in one spot for too long, close your eyes or move them away from area you wish to focus on and then look again. Staring at one spot too long makes it seem as if that spot is moving. When scanning large areas I use a framing technique. I’ll make a box with my hands and scan sections. This helps focus on smaller chunks verses looking over large landscapes. You’re more adapt to pick on tells that are out of place, straight lines, veg, colors, shadows, movement, etc. When observing at night, make a sideways 8 pattern – infinity if you will, it forces you to use your cones rather than the rods in your eyes (rods detect color and are centered in your eyes cones detect black and white and are around the cones) The infinity pattern forces you to not look directly at the object, allowing more light to hit your cones.
Also, scan in three sections foreground, mid-ground and high-ground. Scan from bottom to top, right to left (opposite way you read, which feels weird, it makes you go slower, so you take in more detail).
have a second person confirm if possible who was not staring at it.
12. Look for anything that looks out of place. Straight line items may be a comms wire for a land line, but whose? Yours or your enemy’s?
13. Be observant and know your surroundings. Know what sounds are natural and what changes in them can mean. Silence can also be deadly.
14. Stay alert, it’s easy to let your mind wander and become complacent.
15. Don’t leave tracks in the snow that your enemy can follow.
16. Don’t let the enemy smell you coming. Use odorless laundry detergent, don’t use cologne/aftershave, don’t smoke (see above), don’t dip, don’t eat foods with heavy garlic or other ingredients that allow scent to permeate from your skin. As a last resort grab dirt and rub it all over your clothes to remove as much of the smell as possible.
17. Use your peripheral vision and practice using it, especially at night.
18. Back-lighting will give away your position, even during the day. Hard shadows are unnatural, so plan your routes accordingly; even in urban environments.
19. Don’t build fires, this one should go without saying if you’re trying not to be noticed.
20. Don’t use the old ALICE clips to secure your gear, use MALICE Clips if you have PALS Webbing or even Zip Ties.
21. Never walk parallel to the objective; It’s much more difficult to see someone coming to or away from you than it is side to side.
22. Use dead reckoning and terrain association as much as possible.
23. Dummy cord your gear. Canteen/Nalgene, Night Vision, GPS, multitool and pocket knives. Type 1 Paracord is great for this purpose, cut it long enough to make the equipment easy to get to, but not long enough to hit the ground or get wrapped around something.
24. Save the safety pins that come on the 5.56 bandoliers. They come in handy.
25. Always carry good snivel gear. (layers, balaclava/watchcap and a straw to suck it up.)
26. Carry a quality roll of toilet paper in a Ziploc. Use the MRE paper for cleaning patches.
27. Learn to waterproof your gear, especially comms. Riggers tape works great on the outside of Ziplocs to make them more durable.
28. Tuck your headlamp in your blouse in case it accidentally comes on. Same goes for those keychain Photon lights. avoid headlamps that have sensitive on off switches prefer military models that have twist to turn on off and pressure for temporary on.
29. When drinking from a canteen/nalgene, pass it around to kill it and preven sloshing.
30. Field Strip your MREs.
31. Carry pruning shears for cutting vegetation and creating camouflage.
32. Have a good Escape and Evasion plan.
33. Run IADs (Immediate Action Drills) religiously.
34. Practice moving quietly in every environment. Get a pair of sound enhancing shooting ear pro and listen to yourself. Take your time and plan your next move. if time allows it walk slowly lifting your legs high enough as to not scrub all the undergrowth, lower your legs at a pace to search the ground. i.e. if the ground feels springy at a point you might be attempting to step on a twig.
also match the cadence of the person with you to avoid excess sound.
35. When you need to move with a purpose, stop and listen often. Move a few paces and stop briefly to listen for noise.
36. Learn your Pace Count. In case you didn’t know, your Pace Count is counting every time your left foot hits the ground for 100 meters. This helps with judging the distance you’ve walked. It helps alot with a map,compass, and protractor.
37. When you find a spot to set up in for the night or make a hide, go into the thick stuff. It’s harder to see you, and anybody wanting to snoop around looking for you will make a lot of noise coming up on you. make sure your hideout has more than one exit entry preferably having your emergency exit less obvious as to avoid being cornered.
38. Even if you’re carrying MRE’s, when practical, always supplement them with small game and things you may find to eat in the field. This will make your rations last longer.
39. Tape up everything that’s loose on your pack or anything else you’re carrying, it will help prevent snags.
40. Before you move out, have a buddy listen as you jump up and down to ensure you aren’t rattling and potentially giving away your position.
41. Tuck your boot laces into the tops of you boots after you tie them. You are using square-knotted Paracord laces right?
42. Learn to use hand signals if you’re with a group or even one other guy. Make sure each man knows the signals and use whatever works for everyone. Silent communication is paramount and the more you’re around your guys the more you won’t have to do anything other than look at each other to communicate.
43. carry extra paracord with survival bracelets or any other way you like. also carry camo tape they tend to be useful.
44. avoid use of shiny objects i.e. mirror they may give out your position.
45. use a kill flash on lenses, goggles etc reflections can give away your position.
46. birds moving away from a location indicate movement. similarly birds on trees indicate that there is probably no one in the area. (as long as the trees are not too tall)
47. have all gear on you in layers depending on use. e.g. escape and evasion gear should be directly on you not in your bag. ammunition on the vest and extra gear in your bag. So if you need to ditch your bag the essential gear is on yourself.
48. when carrying gear keep in mind that it is better to feel colder than warmer since after a short distance you will begin to sweat and feel warm.
49. layered insulation only works if the correct amount of clothes is used. i.e. undergarments should allow moisture to move away from your skin.
50. similar to number 7 your weapon should always be at arm’s reach at most.
51. when at one place for rest make sure the things you unpack are essential and not many so you can pack them back and move out at a moment’s notice.
52. use your gear regularly to familiarize yourself with it.
53. although technololgy has progressed and can make your life easier learn not to rely on it too much especially in map reading.
54. Condoms can protect electronics.
Most, if not all of these things work just as well for individuals as they do for a team. Commit them to memory and add your tips in the comments! This list is far from complete. We’d like to follow this up in a few months with all the new tips you guys add. Stay safe out there!
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Post by woodyz on Nov 3, 2013 15:31:48 GMT -7
Your Home Security Checklist July 26, 2012 by admin Filed under Home Security Solutions Leave a Comment home-pic-for-website-8-6-08rNo home is totally burglar-proof especially when a professional burglar decides to target your home. But even the professional will admit that they can be discouraged from breaking into a home when the homeowner has tightened up the perimeter security of the home. To begin with identify the weak areas around your home and fix them. Certainly, installing a good, quality home security system will deter most burglars. However, building layers of protection for your home, even if you don’t have a security system, is going to make your home much tougher to break into. One of the first things you should ask yourself about your home is, “if I am locked out of my home, where could I get in without too much difficulty?” If you think like a burglar, you will see potential problems with your current security and be able to fix them. Review the following checklist and see if you have any weak areas that you can quickly fix to ensure your home totally secure and well-protected. Protect your home with ADT . Don’t waste time - get a free phone quote at 1-877-388-9242 and save! Ask about the $100 Visa Gift Card. EXTERIOR DOORS Should be strong enough to withstand excessive force, be secured with a deadbolt lock that has a minimum one-inch throw, and all strike plates and frames should be anchored to the home’s main construction. *Deadbolts come in double key cylinder and inside thumb-operated models. Frames should be free of warping, cracks, and in good repair. All doors should be locked at night and every time you leave the house – even if it’s just for a few minutes. Doors should be solid hardwood or metal-clad. Doors should have had wide-angle peep-holes at heights that everyone can use. If you have glass panels in or near doors instead, ensure they are reinforced in some way so that they cannot be shattered. Spare keys should be left with a trusted neighbor, not under a doormat or planter, or on a ledge. *Be extra cautious when using double key cylinder deadbolt locks as they could be hazardous if the door is used as an emergency fire exit and the key is not readily available. If used in your home, a key should be left in the inside cylinder whenever the home is occupied GARAGE DOORS Most overhead garage doors have a lock so you do not have to rely solely on the automatic door opener to provide security. Overhead garage doors can be a perfect invitation into your home so keep the door closed when not outside. Don’t make it easy for a criminal looking for an easy target. The door leading from the attached garage to the house - service door - should be solid wood or metal-clad and protected with a quality keyed door lock or deadbolt. Make sure the garage overhead and service doors are closed and locked when leaving the house or when you’re retiring for the evening. Develop that security habit of double checking! When moving into a new home, reset the code in the opener and the remote control units. SLIDING GLASS DOORS The sliding glass door should have proper working, strong key locks. Add a dowel rod into the track of the window or a metal screw placed in the top of the door frame to prevent the door from being lifted from the track and removed. The best lock for older sliding glass doors is operable by a key from the inside. However, some of the newer sliding doors have solid cylinder locks with one-inch or more kick-lock at the bottom of the door making it extremely difficult to get the door open without breaking the glass. Common sense says lock your sliding glass door every night and each time you leave the house. It’s amazing the number of home burglaries through an unlocked door or window. WINDOWS Every window in the house should have a proper working lock and an extra metal pin or dowel rod placed in the track to discourage prying open. On casement windows (crank type), make sure the locking latch works properly and the crank which opens and closes the window has no excessive play. For casement windows that aren’t normally opened, remove the handle and leave nearby. Have windows secured with a lock or metal pin if you leave the window open for ventilation. Basement windows are one of the most common points of entry for burglars. Remove bushes or trees if they hide the windows as this is an ideal place for burglars to work unobserved. You could replace windows with Plexiglas or polycarbonate or reinforced with decorative security bars. OUTDOOR SECURITY Shrubs and bushes are trimmed so there is no place for someone to hide. Include outdoor lights so that there are no dark areas around your house, garage, or yard at night that could hide prowlers or a burglar. Include floodlights appropriately to ensure effective illumination. Be sure to keep outdoor lights on during the evening – whether someone is home or not. Or you could install photocell or motion sensor lights that come on when someone approaches. Ensure your house numbers are posted on your house and clearly visible from the street both night and day should the police or other emergency vehicles need to find your house quickly. SECURITY WHEN AWAY FROM HOME Keep timers set to turn lights on and off in a logical sequence when you are away for an extended period of time. If you have an alarm system, ensure it is activated when you leave home. If you have someone watching your home who must enter, be sure they have a security code, password, and know how to use the alarm system. Either stop your mail and newspaper deliveries or make arrangements for a neighbor/friend to pick them up. A buildup of newspapers is a sure sign to the potential burglar that no one is home. Let trusted neighbors know you will be gone and leave a phone number where they can reach you if there is a problem at your home. OUTDOOR VALUABLES AND PERSONAL PROPERTY Gate latches, garage doors, and shed doors should be locked with high-security, laminated padlocks for the best protection, and kept locked when not in use. Grills, lawn mowers, and other valuables are stored in a locked garage or shed, or if left out in the open are hidden from view with a tarp and securely locked to a stationary point. All bikes are secured with a U-bar lock or quality padlock and chain and are always locked even if we leave them for a few minutes. Firearms are stored unloaded and locked in storage boxes and secured with trigger guard locks. All valuable items, such as television, stereos, and computers have been inscribed with the identifying number per local police. Your home inventory of personal property is up-to-date and includes pictures. A complete inventory is kept somewhere away from your home (in case of fire). Protect your home with ADT . Don’t waste time - get a free phone quote at 1-877-388-9242 and save! Ask about the $100 Visa Gift Card. NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH Start or join your Neighborhood Watch This is a crime prevention program that uses people, in cooperation with law enforcement, to reduce crime in their own neighborhoods. Neighborhood Watch involves neighbors getting to know each other, taking the time to watch out for each other and working together in a program of mutual assistance. By cooperating with each other and the police, people can help fight crime in their community in the most effective way – before it begins! Neighborhood Watch can help you substantially reduce residential burglaries and other crimes. By participating, you will learn: What are effective crime prevention techniques for houses, apartments and neighborhood safety. How you can be a good neighbor by becoming law enforcement’s “eyes and ears” and helping them do their job of investigating and arresting criminals. The first thing I recommend in a home security plan is to install a good quality security system from a recognized security alarm company. When you install a good level of protection in your home BEFORE having a breakin, you usually end of spending less money and can still get very good coverage. Being proactive is the key - don’t wait until you have been a victim of a home burglary or home invasion crime! letstalkhomesecurity.com/?page_id=907 |
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