Post by woodyz on Jul 13, 2014 13:38:41 GMT -7
Ruger 10/22 Spare Parts Kit : What You Need to Know to Keep Your Ruger 10/22 Shooting for the next 100 years!
July 4, 2014 By M.D. Creekmore
The Ruger 10/22 and Glock Model 19 are a good combination and starting point.
The .22 rimfire is probably the world’s most used, yet underrated cartridge. A .22 rifle is one of the best, if not the best firearms, one can own for foraging in a survival situation, allowing the survivor to take small game quietly and can even be used for larger game with proper shot placement.
Many deer have been poached, with nothing more than a well placed .22lr round behind the ear. If forced the .22lr can be used to take small game and even deer at ranges of 75 yards or maybe even a little farther out if you’re a a good shot.
Granted the .22lr will be stretched for power and accuracy out past 75 yards, and I don’t suggest that you go start deer hunting with a .22lr, remember that we are talking about a survival situation…
The 22lr can also be used for limited self-defense, if nothing better is available – two to the body followed by one to the head, or something like that…
The .22LR ammo on the market today, is much more effective than only a few decades ago. High velocity rounds such as, the Winchester Power Point, CCI Stinger, Yellow Jacket, Zapper etc., offer better on target performance and longer range than standard LR rounds, but suffer a loss of accuracy when shot from most rifles.
Ruger 10/22 Takedown is also a great alternative to the standard Ruger 10/22
My advice is to buy as many different brands of 22lr ammunition that you are able to find, and test each in your Ruger 10/22, and then stock up on the one that you found to offer the best accuracy and reliability with your Ruger 10/22.
A good Ruger 10/22 rifle backed up with a center fire handgun, say a Glock 19, is a great choice for the survivalist / prepper, particularly those on a budget. Even if you plan to buy other more powerful firearms, a .22 rifle and centerfire handgun combination is a good starting point.
Keeping the Ruger 10/22 working
The Ruger 10/22 seldom breaks, and fortunately, if it does it isn’t all that difficult to repair, even for the non-gunsmith. Once you learn how the rifle works, and what the parts do each time the trigger is pulled, it’s generally not too difficult to figure out what has broken, when it breaks.
Ruger 10/22 Action
For instance with the 10/22, the trigger is pulled releasing the hammer from the sear, the hammer strikes the firing pin, driving the firing pin into the primer, which ignites the powder charge the expanding gases drive the bullet out of the barrel, this same explosive action also forces the bolt to blow back, the extractor grabs the rim of the fired cartridge pulling it from the chamber, the ejector flips it out, the bolt in its rearward travel also pushes the hammer back to its cocked position engaging the sear and hammer re-cocking the rifle, the bolt on its way back down under force of the recoil spring travels back down over the magazine, picking up a live round and chambering it.
Troubleshooting Ruger 10/22 Repairs
If the Ruger 10/22 is fired and the cartridge casing is left chambered then you would presume that the problem is with the extractor, and or, extractor spring. If the cartridge case is extracted, and not ejected, the problem is most likely with the ejector.
If the firing-pin is making a shallow impression on the primer, and not igniting the powder charge you would know to look at the hammer spring, hammer or firing-pin.
If you hear the hammer fall when the trigger is pulled but the round is not fired, and no impression is made on the primer, you probably have a broken firing-pin.
There is nothing really complicated about repairing firearms, at least so far as the replacement of broken parts.
With a little study and some common sense, getting your Ruger 10/22 up and firing again should not be all that difficult. The trick is in having a spare parts kit on hand so that you can quickly and easily complete the needed repair.
If you will write and ask for it, Ruger® will send you a free owners manual – the manual is also available online . The manual has a complete parts list and diagrams of each part and how they should go together in the weapon. A good place to find spare part is Brownells, Inc.
If you’re new to this then I recommend that you get a copy of the “Complete Ruger 10/22 Rifle: Disassembly /Reassembly (DVD)” from Amazon.com.
Recommended Parts Kit for the Ruger 10/22
Ruger 10/22 spare parts kit…
A basic spare parts kit for the Ruger 10/22, should include; firing pin, firing pin rebound spring, extractor, extractor plunger, extractor spring, hammer spring, sear spring, magazine latch, recoil spring assembly, ejector, sear, magazine latch plunger spring, front and rear sight. Other parts can be included expanding on the basic list, but those listed are the ones which will most likely be needed.
Pictures with the Article here.
www.thesurvivalistblog.net/ruger-1022-spare-parts-kit/
July 4, 2014 By M.D. Creekmore
The Ruger 10/22 and Glock Model 19 are a good combination and starting point.
The .22 rimfire is probably the world’s most used, yet underrated cartridge. A .22 rifle is one of the best, if not the best firearms, one can own for foraging in a survival situation, allowing the survivor to take small game quietly and can even be used for larger game with proper shot placement.
Many deer have been poached, with nothing more than a well placed .22lr round behind the ear. If forced the .22lr can be used to take small game and even deer at ranges of 75 yards or maybe even a little farther out if you’re a a good shot.
Granted the .22lr will be stretched for power and accuracy out past 75 yards, and I don’t suggest that you go start deer hunting with a .22lr, remember that we are talking about a survival situation…
The 22lr can also be used for limited self-defense, if nothing better is available – two to the body followed by one to the head, or something like that…
The .22LR ammo on the market today, is much more effective than only a few decades ago. High velocity rounds such as, the Winchester Power Point, CCI Stinger, Yellow Jacket, Zapper etc., offer better on target performance and longer range than standard LR rounds, but suffer a loss of accuracy when shot from most rifles.
Ruger 10/22 Takedown is also a great alternative to the standard Ruger 10/22
My advice is to buy as many different brands of 22lr ammunition that you are able to find, and test each in your Ruger 10/22, and then stock up on the one that you found to offer the best accuracy and reliability with your Ruger 10/22.
A good Ruger 10/22 rifle backed up with a center fire handgun, say a Glock 19, is a great choice for the survivalist / prepper, particularly those on a budget. Even if you plan to buy other more powerful firearms, a .22 rifle and centerfire handgun combination is a good starting point.
Keeping the Ruger 10/22 working
The Ruger 10/22 seldom breaks, and fortunately, if it does it isn’t all that difficult to repair, even for the non-gunsmith. Once you learn how the rifle works, and what the parts do each time the trigger is pulled, it’s generally not too difficult to figure out what has broken, when it breaks.
Ruger 10/22 Action
For instance with the 10/22, the trigger is pulled releasing the hammer from the sear, the hammer strikes the firing pin, driving the firing pin into the primer, which ignites the powder charge the expanding gases drive the bullet out of the barrel, this same explosive action also forces the bolt to blow back, the extractor grabs the rim of the fired cartridge pulling it from the chamber, the ejector flips it out, the bolt in its rearward travel also pushes the hammer back to its cocked position engaging the sear and hammer re-cocking the rifle, the bolt on its way back down under force of the recoil spring travels back down over the magazine, picking up a live round and chambering it.
Troubleshooting Ruger 10/22 Repairs
If the Ruger 10/22 is fired and the cartridge casing is left chambered then you would presume that the problem is with the extractor, and or, extractor spring. If the cartridge case is extracted, and not ejected, the problem is most likely with the ejector.
If the firing-pin is making a shallow impression on the primer, and not igniting the powder charge you would know to look at the hammer spring, hammer or firing-pin.
If you hear the hammer fall when the trigger is pulled but the round is not fired, and no impression is made on the primer, you probably have a broken firing-pin.
There is nothing really complicated about repairing firearms, at least so far as the replacement of broken parts.
With a little study and some common sense, getting your Ruger 10/22 up and firing again should not be all that difficult. The trick is in having a spare parts kit on hand so that you can quickly and easily complete the needed repair.
If you will write and ask for it, Ruger® will send you a free owners manual – the manual is also available online . The manual has a complete parts list and diagrams of each part and how they should go together in the weapon. A good place to find spare part is Brownells, Inc.
If you’re new to this then I recommend that you get a copy of the “Complete Ruger 10/22 Rifle: Disassembly /Reassembly (DVD)” from Amazon.com.
Recommended Parts Kit for the Ruger 10/22
Ruger 10/22 spare parts kit…
A basic spare parts kit for the Ruger 10/22, should include; firing pin, firing pin rebound spring, extractor, extractor plunger, extractor spring, hammer spring, sear spring, magazine latch, recoil spring assembly, ejector, sear, magazine latch plunger spring, front and rear sight. Other parts can be included expanding on the basic list, but those listed are the ones which will most likely be needed.
Pictures with the Article here.
www.thesurvivalistblog.net/ruger-1022-spare-parts-kit/
